Taiwan

Area around Tianhou temple in Lugang, Changhua county

While in Lugang (鹿港），in northwestern Changhua county, it would be a mistake not to visit a vibrant and old spirited place near Tianhou temple, on ZhongShan (中山）street. It's worth to come at evening (not night though) time, then for those, who are more interested in "everything around", rather than temple itself, an interest choice for a food will be offered.

Tienhou temple itself of course it the one of the most bright spots in the area at the evening:

In the Qing Dynasty, general Shi Lang built the first temple of Goddess of Sea in Taiwan. However, as sooner or later you will discover in Taiwan - 7Eleven or Family mart presence in any historical towns and just immediately after such temples are very normal:
 

Anyway, Taiwan is really so convenient place to live - I had recently saw some polls from foreign expats showing that everyone says same, such things is easy to forgive. You should give up something to get something.

You won't miss also entrance to the area, it's crowded with a people and at evening looks like this:

Just after the entrance night market starts:

 This place is almost 100 % associated to dishes related to ousters and special kind of shrimps called, monkey shrimps. Below woman is selling this kind of food, you see 螳螂蝦 一口蟹 溪蝦 蚵嗲 蚵仔酥 - so, different kind of shrimps, ousters and crabs. Tienhou nightmarket is sea and river food paradise, eo expect all food to be prepared of this. 

 Another popular show around there is like this below, selling religion items, immediately to be used for praying in a temple:

If you have motorbike, parking is not an issue, but for a car - you will need park somewhere outside more far away.

Most interesting in my opinion is the food offerings just left to the temple. I took the video, while wandering near those restaurants:

 I suggested try out his restaurant - and order all food with ousters - it's really special and such kind can be found seems only here.
 

 Ousters cooked with egg, one of popular dish here.

Everyone is concentrated and working hard.

Omelet - in menu look for 蚵仔煎 - ouster omelet. 

This offering is similar to the one above - again shrimps and ousters. 

 

蚵嗲 - Ouster cocktail

Ousters served with noodles. 

And this is how the it looks like. That's the hero of Tianhou nightmarket. Here all is about and around ouster....

 .... in soup finally, if eggs and noodles are not what you want.

 They look more terrible than taste - river shrimps.

 蝦猴 - Monkey Shrimps!

Religion is same business as everything else, right?

 Moving apart the temple streets become more dark, and there are less shops.

 Souvenirs for you， dear 外國人. 

 What's particulary interesting - historical japanese era buildings, seen everywhere in a district.

 And we are saying buy to Tianhou temple leaving it behind.

Dapu - rural township in Chiayi county and Siraya National Scenic Area

Dapu (大埔鄉) is a rural township in Chiayi county. Mostly it's famous for nearby located Siraya National Scenic Area (西拉雅國家風景區), and Zhengwun reservoir. And - what's not mentioned in tourist guides - in this area specific flower can be found which according to traditional chinese medicine can be used in case of cancer. Our friends decided go there just because of this flower, and we joined the trip.
  

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Dapu in fact looks like any other small sleepy rural township in southern taiwan, except the fish restaurants densely scattered over small streets. You can see such fish signs everywhere in Dapu, it's a close proximity of reservoirs, which allows local people to do this business. Before going Siraya Scenic area, you can stop by and have a lunch in one of the restaurants.



Notice the elections advertisement right side on a pole. At the time I took the photo campaigns are heating up, and such photos are sticked at every possible places - even a smallest mountainous roads will have some face sticked to anything where it is possible to stick. Note also, how this guy keeps the hands - it's a traditional gesture for almost everyone on those advertisements. It means bai tuo bai tuo - please please.



Abandoned old house is a good place to park motorbikes.



Taiwan sometimes really is contrast country. You will and always meet those terrible driving style blue trucks along the island, but such a painting?



One of those restaurants are cooking fish just on a road:





Interior also is pretty common for small rural restaurants - round tables, easy chairs and big painting on a wall.



When you go to Siraya Scenic area, go check in at visitor center - entrance fee should be paid.



Small exhibition here - painted rocks.



Ask host to offer you their special Taiwan coffee - it's really fresh and good, and they are really proud of it and will be happy to offer it to try.



Zhengwun reservoir.



The Siraya National Scenic Area is located at the crossroads of Tainan County's Jianan Plain and the western mountains.



Because this extensive area connects high mountains with a plain, there are many intersecting streams and rivers. These result in great varieties of different landforms, creating a landscape that includes natural waterfalls and cliff-side springs.



The Siraya National Scenic Area is a major farm produce area. A large variety of fruits and other products grow year-round, making the Siraya National Scenic Area true to its name of "A Land of Abundance".



In recent years, under governmental direction, the agricultural products of all counties and towns have been integrated, promoting local special products in each area, "one specialty for each village or town".



Mountainous and lonely roads are also interesting to explore - it gives a feeling of how this remote area looks like besides traditional tourist routes.





That's the flower I talked before. It is said that it can cure cancer.



Closer look on 薑黃 - or, possible english translation may be turmeric (according to yahoo translator).



薑黃 can be found everywhere in this area, just park somewhere on a road, and you will sooner or later see it.



Careful driving is necessary on those mountainous roads, that's truth.



Interestingly enough, that Dapu outskirts have also such atypical to southern taiwan community of houses - mostly those are summer houses and owners come here to stay at weekends and holidays.



This house is on sell now - in USD about 30,000 as local man told us. Big advantage of this house of course is a beautiful view, clean mountain air and SILENCE! Yes, SILENCE what's absolutely is a deficit thing in Taiwan. If you plan to stay in Taiwan for a long time, remember that if you live in more or less big township (i am even not talking about Kaoshiung, Taichung or Tapei) you will never have silence. Never. Motorbikes are always awake, someone is talking loud, small blue spam-trucks are advertising something at 9 a.m at saturday morning and so on. Dapu is silent. But then again, be so kind and drive miles to closest 7ELEVEN.



but again - how about SILENCE, and such a view from your bedroom at morning?



However, surprise surprise! Blue trucks along with motorbikes like mosquitoes are also here. Everywhere in fact. Just not in cloud alike capacities like in a cities.



one more house from this community.



Sunset at Dapu outskirts are calm and warm. I would be happy to live here.

Engagement in Miaoli, Western Taiwan: What it takes...

Engagement... What's the difference with actual marriage by the way? It turned out that I recently visited one, and I will give you chance to see it also - by means of pictures and video - thank you - youtube! Most interesting is a fact that if I wouldn't knew before, that it's engagement, then I would be absolutely sure, that it is marriage

For those of us, who comes from countries where engagement hardly goes beyond "please marry me words, in candlelight dinner, preferably in Hawaii", I am giving Wikipedia's opinion on it:

An engagement is a promise to marriage, and also the period of time between proposal and marriage – which may be lengthy or trivial. During this period, a couple is said to be affianced, betrothed, engaged to be married, or simply engaged. Future brides and bridegrooms are often referred to as fiancées (brides) or fiancés (grooms).

Now, I want to show how this promise is celebrated in Taiwan, particularly in Miaoli. Before we go on, I want to tell also, that before I had also visited actual wedding as well, and also in Miaoli. Let me tell you that in principal no difference, however, there is one - and a principal one. Those 2 ceremonies are totally same - a lot of tables for dinner, bride & groom walks from table to table, and of course (my god my ears), everyone things he CAN SING - Karaoke, or KTV, and - depending on culture level of particular family a little dressed girl singing and dancing - more you will move to South of Taiwan, more will have those. In the wedding i was before, there was such a girl, here in engagement - no. 

And one more important thing - in engagement, all friends and family (except most close ones, who are from both) from brides side are invited, and in wedding - all friends and family from groom's side are invited. here answer to question why ceremony is almost same lays also - because we want to eat & drink and we (do not want) to listen KTV performed by brides sister's in law father's uncle. Especially if they try to perform Hotel California. 

Enough words, let video and pictures speak louder than text!

Who is who introduction. Parents and closet relatives of bride and groom.

Now, check this video how many people are invited. It was just at the beginning only, when i just arrived in Taiwan, when in much smaller family gatherings i was always asking my wife or someone else - who is that man, or who is this woman - in 99 % cases, answer was - No idea. (remember - it's FAMILY gatherings). However now, I still can not stop wondering about another Taiwan Flavor - it is very common at such gatherings to sit at the SAME TABLE with someone, who you ask - who is this, and still get answer "no idea". I am adapting, but still did not adapted fully though.

If you do not know 90 % of people around, of course this man below is the one awaited most I guess. He brings dishes..

Asparagus - well, let's keep a hope that more to follow.

Sushi (Japan, your GDP down in 1Q 15.2 %, but at least you are evergreen in sushi dish) and some meat.

Brrr, from those i am scared. Seafoodophobia - i would call it like this. Crabophobia particularly.

This soup was ok...

More sea food.

In western weddings most pathetic moment are Mendelssohn March, when bride comes out, or both comes depending on country? Well, the key is that it is pathetic, and they come only once. Taiwan is a country who says, why not repeat it? Such "walk-outs" as you can see in above video were at least 3 in this engagement.

A kind of rap...

You must accept that your "uncle-in-law" will be singing at your wedding if you want to have one in Taiwan. Just read this again - you must to.

At one moment couple will come to your distant table as well. Be sure to be present at that time, it happens only once.

Jiouhua Mountain Monastery and Temple in Tongluo, Miaoli county, Western Taiwan

If you happen to be driving from Tongluo (銅鑼) - small rural township in Miaoli county in Western Taiwan to Sanyi township, a place worth to visit is Jiouhua Mountain Monastery and Temple - place that reveals a real heart of contemporary Taiwanese religion and gives you insight in a spirit of Western Taiwan. You will not find this place in tourist guides, while everyone who lives on western taiwan knows this place. Students come here to pray before exams, some people come here several times per year to pray - and - eat "good" noodles. What's "good" noodles? Stay with me, you will see. Now, we did not arrived yet, there is a place to visit before.

Don't miss the turn, it shows just a turn to Jiouhua mountain:

 

Soon, after you turn right following this road:

...you'll stumble upon interesting place. I would call it tea shop, but it's something really unexpected here.



and the nearby shop, where you can find a snacks and nuts (at least at the moment, we were here - may, 2009).



At this moment, the tea shop seemed to be closed, but i was so interested about it, that one of older woman went out and then after a moment a woman - owner appeared in a door, and opened tea shop just for us. She told, that they are usually open in november only, when Chrysanthemum full blooms - in fact that's what Miaoli and Tongluo is proud of - Chrysanthemums, and their blossoms. Owner told us that it is worth for them to be open just at this time of year. Nevertheless she is so warm and welcome to us! After short chat, we decide to try Chrysanthemum flower tea, coffee and what else she can make for us. I took a walk in garden while snacks where preparing:





In november, when Chrysanthemum blooms, they also offer bicycles for rent.







Here's what we've got. Chrysanthemum flower tea, coffee and really tasty honey cake - seems warmth of welcoming hosts are transforming in their snacks also.



Aroma & taste is very special - you need to try it, it can not be described and photo can not pass aromas...

For the temple itself - in fact the tea shop already made my mood good for all the day, it turned out as a very big place, surrounded with a supplementary small business - there a lineups with noodles sellers before the temple you buy it, and then give away, and then they cook it and you eat for free. That's the idea.



When you approach the temple, monks chants are heard already from a distance, and here is what opens to your eyes once you arrive:



Singers are two monks in black, standing with faces to temple:







I noticed that here prayers were older man and woman, while "good" noodles - those were eating everyone - small and not so.

According tradition, you need eat those noodles and luck will be with you - those are good noodles.

Let's try, here you see the serving room, a really big place:

Of course signs of "no photo" are everywhere, but I still wanted share this to world - so, I did it for YOU:





Serving "good" noodles for everyone...



Choose your seat...



... and enjoy your meal - especially recommended before important university exams!

Matsu goddess procession comes to Fengchia street in Taichung

Last April I was lucky to witness Matsu goddess procession right in my district near Fengchia Park in Taichung. Matsu goddess procession is one of the most important religious rituals in Taiwan and especially in central region of Taiwan, mainly of course because of DaJia Matsu Temple, from where most biggest Matsu event usually starts.
As Taiwanfun.com points out:

"Each spring, Taichung county's Dajia (Tachia) town becomes a busy hive of religious and tourist activity as preparations for the goddess Matsu's birthday celebrations take place. Matsu, who came to Taiwan with 17th-century immigrants from Fujian province, is the most worshipped deity in Taiwan with hundreds of temples around the island devoted to her.
Matsu's birthday falls on the 23rd day of the third lunar month, but is usually celebrated earlier with a pilgrimage to sister Matsu temples. The pilgrimage procession starts from the Chenlan Temple in Dajia and goes hundreds of kilometers through Taichung, Changhua, Yunlin and Chiayi counties before returning to Dajia eight days later. "

This time however, "another" Matsu arrived on Fengchia street, and a woman in nearby restarant was kind enough to say a story, which follows exactly this Matsu. I am re-writing the story from her words, so if someone knows some discrepancies, please point them out in comments.
There was a parents, who's daugther recently died. At the same time, some businessman (she told us exactly this - businessman), saw in a dream this woman, which he never knew before, and she asked him go find her parents, and tell them, that near their house, under the tree, there is a gold buried. Businessman found the parents and told them about his dream and they really found gold. After that, frustrated and shocked they went to temple for prey, and found that Matsu goddess is crying.
Well, it seems a kind of Virgin Mary Statue Crying story.
Anyway, that's a story behind this Matsu, and my goal is to show anyone this procession as it looks like - photos and videos are to follow now.

Small temple host prepares for a ritual dance to meet Matsu when she will arrive. Procession at this moment is pretty close, as you can see the motorbike approaching with a flag - they are following procession, and some goes before it. Here are some more photos of this man:



Notice the red "snake" on a street - fireworks are prepared to make as much noise as possible - Taiwan is loud country. Just remember what noise are made at Bombing the Dragon Festival - videos are here.





It's really meditation now - watch how he concentrates for a dance.

And here they come:

2 police cars escorts procession. Singing bettelnut style girls and drummers are going first.





Followers keeping flags in hands rushes over the street trying to catch the procession.

Eventually it stops, so you can enjoy the drums more:







Finally Matsu arrives - and most interesting moment happens - man meets Matsu by ritual dance. Just watch above video!

Welcome, Matsu!

At this moment you may think, that most interesting is over. No! Most interesting starts just now. Watch below! There is one more Matsu? I could not figure out, but seems this one is more important one, as now fireworks were launched, and noise were such that my camera one moment even lost connection with hard disk. Also singing "bettelnut style" girls, photographed below, are seen here on video as they perform.





Very religious, isn't she?



This girl was so scared from fireworks and all the sounds that stopped singing and tried to hind in a car.



One more Matsu coming? Considering the noise, more important one.



Smaller than first one, but noise is much bigger.



Man in action also here.





...and they leave, just smoke and people with cameras and mobile phones in hands left.

Taichung Airport - a good choice as it turns out

It seems that Taichung airport is like a undervalued hidden gem for a frequent traveler. All those years I was traveling to Taiwan through Taoyuen airport, and then took or bus or arranged a car come to pick me up and then lost 2 and a half hours trip to Taichung. Recently, I was in Ho Chi Minh airport in Vietnam, and noticed that there are direct flights to Taichung. Of course I knew, that there is a Taichung airport before, but for some reason ticket agents were telling us that there are just about 1 or 2 flights, and all of them are to Hong Kong only. It appears they just sell what gives them bigger profit, and they are not interested on your convenience. I decided to give a try, moreover, I just needed to fly to Hongkong this time, from where I usually take bus to Shenzhen.
It was a great experience indeed, and a time saving - is huge. Not only you save time for a way to Taoyuen, you also save way at passport control and customs, and the luggage waiting time is about 3 or 4 times less - only 1 plane lands, and there is only 1 carousel, and you get a bag laterally instantly after you land there. It took me just about 7 minutes to go out of aircraft, go through passport control and take a bug. Try to do it in Taipei. Sometimes only passport control rows take 20 minutes. By the way, is that only my experience in those passport control rows, that I always choose a slowest one? Once you stand in one, others start to move much faster than your's almost instantly.
For those, who are still in doubt about Taichung airport, I took some photos and video, to give a glance how it looks like.
When you arrive, there is just 1 hall. Here arrivals also are.

I am not sure it is a true fr all airlines, but in my case for Dragonair, check-in to get a boarding pass, and luggage counter were in 2 different places. Here is where they took luggage:

And that's all. Go up to for passport control..

After you pass it - you are here. However, there is practically no tax free shops, and restaurant is only one:

That's all where you will be able to spend your dime after you cross passport control.

Only 3 gates in Taichung airport.

Chou Mao Yuen Park - West Coast of Taiwan, near Tongxiao, Miaoli county

Yesterday, I made a post, featuring Tongxiao outskirts, and some pictures of West Coast of Taiwan. If you decide to go check the West Coast yourself, and also happen to be near Tongxiao - it's well worth to visit also Chou Mao Yuen Park - 秋茂園. Man, who built this park, according the info I found in internet in Chinese, are doctor, who got his education in Japan, and after he became rich and and well known man, he made this park in honor of his parents.
He established 2 parks, another one are in Tainan. Also, from those texts I found, they say that his childhood was very poor, and he had no toys and fruits were frequently served at their table. So, as he became rich, he wanted to make such a park with big sculptures, symbolizing toys he did not had, and also fruits which are supposed to be there - are free for everyone to take.



There are 2 entrances, I used the one at rear side of park, since it's faces coast directly. But, the main entrance from railroad side also can be used.



Entrance to park is free, snacks are not. "there are no such thing as free lunch" - it's truth also in Western Taiwan, as elsewhere.

Pictures follows:

West Coast of Taiwan - Tongxiao township outskirts and villages

Tongxiao (通霄鎮) is an urban township in southern Miaoli County, Taiwan. It is surrounded by the Taiwan Strait on the east and mountains on the west.

• Area: 107.8486 km²
• Population: 39,962 people (April,2006)

We decided to explore west coast of Taiwan due to several reasons. One of them - very less coverage in all Taiwan guides - usually the east coast are considered as gorgeous and beautiful, also south - where the resorts of Kenting are located. Lonely Planet even suggests to stay away from it as nothing interesting there.

Road to the west coast will bring you through numerous rice fields and villages.



West coast has less mountains, and the coastal area has much more plains. Above is typical village in Tongxiao outskirts. They all will look similar there.



You will need cross railroad which goes just along the coastal line in order to get access to the coast directly.



Older houses slowly disappears in western coastal area giving up their land for newer style housing . West coast villages have a mix of new and older houses.



Typical small farm road in Tongxiao. 3 main things you will see there - temples, small houses and rice fields.



Local woman works in a rice field in windy march Saturday.



Those typical to Taiwan mirrors are generously installed for your safe driving even in those rice fields. I am saying and always will say, that Taiwan is very convenient place to live.



Besides the human - also those birds are claiming their share.









West Coast as seen in early March in 2009. If not impressive now, wait till around 6 at evening (in march) - to see the sunset:









Closer to Tongxiao township we saw some boats. In early march no one was here, but I assume, that in summer you can rent them for joyride.



I am not boats expert at all. Are those for fishing?





It's 5 p.m...



Mild evening in Tongxiao outskirts.



You can get picturesque views everywhere you go there.



Sunset in rice farm in Western Coastal area in Taiwan.

Jie Tuo Xio Chi restaurant in Miaoli, Guo Hua street.

This post is as Example Nr.2, to my yesterdays post about How to choose good restaurant in Taiwan - rule of thumb Nr.1. If you are starting to read about my system of spotting good restaurants in Taiwan with this post - you may be interested to read theoretical background of this system and also example Nr.1.
Here, let's examine Example Nr.2
Maybe restaurant sounds a little too pathetic for this place, but it definitely deserves it.  Be introduced to Jie Tui Xio Chi restaurant in Miaoli, Guo Hua street.
Again, same as in example Nr.1 there are no flashy neon lights or others bells-n-whistles, it's just like this:



If fact, sign says something like "street place, restaurant", if translate literally. It even does not have a brand name. I also took pictures of street junction, where this place is located in case you happen to be in Miaoli, you can use them to locate it.







This road can bring you to Tongxiao - a place, that soon will be covered in my blog.





Shiao Tzai (小菜) and eggs - cold snacks for immediate eat.



I will not exaggerate at all, if I will say, that for me this one is best restaurant in whole Taiwan, and the food here is really a most tasty and delicious. It's Miaoli - a lot are Hakka food though, and then it turns out that I must be hakka food fan. Law works here as usual - if it's open - all 6 tables available are at least 100 % busy. And it's open at morning and afternoon, closed at evenings. Closed also in Mondays.



Gan Mien - traditional noodles in hakka style.



Dumpling soup. Also hakka style. Such triangle shaped dumplings are only in Miaoli, it's very specific and special there.



Shiao Tzai (小菜) - pork and eggs.



My favorite - pig's bowel, little spicy and very tasty.



Selection of cold meat snacks - heart, liver and similar.



Dry white carrot soup with pork.

How to choose good restaurant in Taiwan - rule of thumb Nr.1

Word of mouth marketing works great in any business, in restaurants it's just a lifeblood and having your own evangelists, you could just live only on it, without any flashy or annoying signs, small blue trucks, who use loudspeakers driving early Saturday morning in your side street to wake you up with abusing announcement of new menu or a boy near MRT, who hands out advertisement. Having said that, I need to tell, that any of my customers for marketing issues I would still recommend my 101 things to do for marketing checklist, however keeping in mind, that word of mouth is the thing, that will generate the business. And why word of mouth sparks sometimes, is that good food, or your creative design or betel nut style girls as waitresses? In taiwan it's food, food and again food. You can do everything, but if you will have bad food, you will have no WOM. Truth to be said, that using a tricks and catches I would brainstorm with owner - there will be and must be the new customers, but if you will give dishes that not tastes good, they will not come again. If you want to open restaurant in Taiwan -remember, food first, marketing second, outlook third. And that means for you, as a foreigner or tourist here also. Do not be fooled by shiny and fancy designs - you will mostly get much better and tasty food in restaurants, that look not so clean (in your western eyes), not so fashionable and not so ____ you write it. This post is introduction of series of such examples. When WOM + good food makes miracles happen.
So, how to spot a good restaurant having no friend around to suggest it?
Easy.
Look one with most people inside, and the most good one will be the one where people are not only sitting inside, but also standing outside and waiting for food to be cooked for takeaway home. It's just that easy, and my wife taught me this rule just one as first rules when I went to Taiwan.
I tried break this rule. I tried specially choose a most empty restaurant on a street, to get really decent on taste food and say - yes, the busy place is much better. I tried break this rule many times. Still, busy paces have better food and nothing can break this law. It's like a watering hole in desert - the best ones are most busy. I will give an examples one by one in my blog, as i will happen to visit such "busy" places, that look totally "grey" from outside, and can be easily missed, if criteria for choose is a fancy sign.
I do not say also, that all what is made in boutique style with expensive interior and golden color plumbing in WC - they are, and some are also good, but ROI - return on investment, (pleasure of good food per dollar amount paid) will be much better at those, what you will choose at this simple rule.
Note - rule works much better in local districts, in centers, especially, in tourist busy places it might work worse, since much people are same as you not locals. But in local living districts, night markets - this rule again works perfectly.

EXAMPLE NR.1 (more on next posts, so stay tuned)

One of such restaurants are on Beipin road in Taichung. Also, it's a lot of time to drive from our location to there, she's constantly at least 2 or 3 times going exactly to there, and became pure evangelist of this restaurant suggesting it to everyone for lunch, and so off we went.



Allow me introduce the Lao Shan restaurant on Beipin Lu 173. Yes, it's that simply and easy. No halogen 4 m flash signs, or WE ARE THE NR.1 IN TAIWAN or anything like that. And it's full. All the scooters you see came just here and for lunch, and most of them were in suits, so, it must be good food.



everyone is extremely busy, a lot of workers - for relatively small place



That's it. White walls and hungry people and you are lucky to find 1 table at lunch time. That's a pattern to choose a restaurant in Taiwan.



Selection of cold dishes - beans, peas, salad, vegetables etc.



That's our lunch - noodles with beef, taros, kelp, sweet potato, tofu and Lu Wei. It's just what you could expect. Good quality, tasty and healthy. In my next post I will introduce similar restaurant, but this time in Miaoli.